Aftermarket Parts Guide

This page lists all known parts for these vehicles where performance or quality is an issue. The reason is simply that aftermarket parts are often not constructed/rebuilt properly, are defective, or fail after a very short service life. I have supplied specific brands to avoid, when possible. I also provide aftermarket recommendations, where possible. A part listed in green means that the aftermarket part is actually better than the Mopar part. A part shown in black means there is no specific recommendation (the aftermarket and Mopar parts are good). A part listed in red means the aftermarket part is to be avoided and you will need to another brand or "Get Real. Get Mopar." See the Vendors Page for links to any specific vendors below.

Engine

Vic Headgasket - this gasket requires modification or special installation for it work at all, and even then is likely to fail. Avoid this part. The Mopar headgasket used to be of this type, but was redesigned a few years ago. Go with the Mopar or Mopar Performance headgasket.

Fel-Pro Headgasket - This used to be the better gasket available, but now seem to be the source of many problems. Go with the Mopar or Mopar Performance headgasket.

Quickor Polyurethane Engine Mounts - Quickor has recently added a number of engine mounts and suspension bushings for these vehicles to their catalog. Being polyurethane, they are very hard and then to transmit more engine vibration to the chassis. They are excellent for high-performance applications and will most likely never need replacing.

Standard Engine Mounts - I have yet to see any aftermarket engine mount that will last longer than a couple of months (if that). They are also sometimes harder than the Mopar mounts and will often transmit more vibration. Get the Mopar mounts if you want stock performance.

Generic Fuel Hose - Avoid any high pressure fuel injector fuel hose that is not made by Gates or Goodyear. Most quality parts stores sell name-brand hose for around $5 per foot. Avoid anything from Pep-Boys or AutoZone that costs less. It will not withstand the high pressures on Chrysler's turbo engines for long, even though it says "fuel injection hose".

Fram Oil Filters - These filters have extremely poor internal construction. The filter elements have been known to fall apart and the anti-drain back valves fail, or don't work in the first place. See the Oil Filters Revealed article for more information.

Mobil 1 Synthetic Engine Oil - Use it. See the Engine Oil Choices page for more information.

Drivetrain

Motormite Kwik-Boot - Avoid these CV joint, ball joint, and tie rod end boots replacement. Although it is tempting to use since you do not have to remove anything, they will fail quickly if you get them on at all. Also, if your CV joint boot has torn or split, you MUST disassemble the joint, clean out all the old grease, and repack it with grease that is usually included with a new boot. Otherwise, the dirt and contaminants picked up by the grease from the road will destroy the joint.

Electrical

Borg-Warner and Standard Temperature Sensors - These parts are usually cheaper than the Mopar ones and are made of brass instead of cheap plastic (like the originals). These include the coolant temperature, the air charge temperature, and the throttle body temperature sensors.

Body

nil

Interior

nil

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Updated 10/22/2003.